Here is an example of what can be done with a Wargames Factory 28mm plastic Zulu. I wanted an Induna for one of the regiments that I am painting and decided to do a little bit of extra work on one figure to make it special. Using a pyrogravure hot needle tool I added to and textured the feathers of the headdress - a feathered head comes on the sprue. I then used some Green Stuff to add the body apparel and a metal bracelet like those worn by important Zulus. The Martini Henry is one of the rifles that comes on the Zulu sprue. It wasn't hard to do and I think that the end result is a figure which does the job nicely. I used Vallejo paints, except for the bronze bracelet which was Lumiere Acrylic, and the black base which is Citadel black.
Friday, December 31, 2010
AN ORCISH NEW YEAR TO ALL!
Shagrat, Gorbag and all the lads wish you all a great new year for 2011. What we have here are mostly Reaper figures with a scratchbuilt skull standard. The standard bearer is not Reaper and was a figure I found in a specials box a few years ago. He wasn't a standard bearer but a few deft touches and some stern words, in the Fel Tongue of the place whose name we do not mention, soon convinced him of his new calling.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Montrose Scots- The Irish Brigade and Scots Lancers
I haven't been posting too much recently, because I have been consumed with the painting of grey! These units are the latest addition to my Montrose Royalist army. No Montrose army is complete without the Irish brigade. These troops were arguably some of the most experienced and competent to fight in the civil wars. They were desperate men, many had served as mercenaries on the continent and about a third of them were displaced Scots; many of them MacDonalds, looking to return to their piece of the homeland. They knew that the stakes were high and that there would be no privileges given if they were captured. The figures below are a mixed bag. The Shot are Foundry figures and the pike are made by Warlord Games. There is a converted Foundry drummer in there somewhere. The Colours are hand painted.
The Scots lancers are all Warlord Games figures and are armed to the teeth. Many have minor conversions, with the addition of bonnets and extra pistols.
Lastly, the highland gentlemen (in a previous post) and the Irish Boys need a leader. The reputation and prowess if Alasdair MacDonald or MacColla the Devastator! He is a character who was literally larger than life, apparently he stood a good foot taller than the average man and was a charismatic and ruthless leader. He is credited for uniting the highland clans with Montrose and gave the Covenators something to think about!
The figures here, which will form the command of my highland gentlemen are all Warlord Games models, with MacColla being the tallest one!
On the painting table: Strathbogie Regiment of Foot (90% finished, Scots Frame gun and Crew, A Falconet Gun and crew and Montrose Himself!
Irish Foot (Shot) |
Irish Officer |
The Scots lancers are all Warlord Games figures and are armed to the teeth. Many have minor conversions, with the addition of bonnets and extra pistols.
Lastly, the highland gentlemen (in a previous post) and the Irish Boys need a leader. The reputation and prowess if Alasdair MacDonald or MacColla the Devastator! He is a character who was literally larger than life, apparently he stood a good foot taller than the average man and was a charismatic and ruthless leader. He is credited for uniting the highland clans with Montrose and gave the Covenators something to think about!
The figures here, which will form the command of my highland gentlemen are all Warlord Games models, with MacColla being the tallest one!
On the painting table: Strathbogie Regiment of Foot (90% finished, Scots Frame gun and Crew, A Falconet Gun and crew and Montrose Himself!
Monday, December 20, 2010
ZULUS...ZULUS...ZULUS!
Still painting Zulus for the Isandlwana game at Cancon 2012. I have also indulged myself by painting some personality figures to use in the game. Empress Miniatures make some truly lovely 28mm figures for the Zulu War. Two of them I recently painted are below.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Painting tips..
People are always asking on forums about undercoating and varnishing and I always mention my preferences, now I will have a spot I can link to..huzzah!!!
For priming, and in the case of my cheaper paint jobs undercoating I use these sprays, .I purchase them from Bunnings or Magnet Mart or anywhere I come across them. They are around $11AUD each. .These are superior to other purely hobby branded spray cans , being much more robust in their finish and only half the price. The Primer ,I have been told is an acrylic lacquer, and dries quite hard, goes on easily and covers well. From that point I either spray them with the Matte black or undercoat in Tamiya flat brown through the airbrush.Always allow 24 hours for the Primer to dry. It dries dead flat..if you have shaken it up well. The black, on the other hand being only Matte has an annoying sheen.
When the miniature is finish I then coat it with the above, with a thick big brush..and allow to dry. If you are going to use Testors dullcote then I find this to be a crucial process.this being a Matte, not a flat, dries with a bit of an annoying sheen..but..
then comes the final varnishing ..I am just beginning to use Dullcote again..I used it all the time when I painted in oils and enamels.. but I found Acrylics a bit delicate . It is usually safe if you have sealed your mini with the Jo Sonja's Matte..if not it can eat you acrylics right off to the metal.
But my favourite is seen in the last picture .Gunze H20 flat clear..if you have let the Matte varnish dry completely, and conditions are perfect, or near perfect, then I run it through the airbrush, mixed well in my paint shaker for about 2 minutes, with about 1:5 ratio of Windex window cleaner/Varnish and spray away .
People don't take seriously the paint shaker..bad luck for them I say. An absolute must in my opinion. especially using tear dropper acrylics. I routinely shake all my new dropper bottles before first use., and it is a boon in "recovering" paint that has dehydrated to some extent..a small amount of Window cleaner and a five minute shake and you can usually bring dieing GW paint back to complete a useful life.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/rob/rob411.htm
http://www.robart.com/store/hobby-tools/paint-shakers
For priming, and in the case of my cheaper paint jobs undercoating I use these sprays, .I purchase them from Bunnings or Magnet Mart or anywhere I come across them. They are around $11AUD each. .These are superior to other purely hobby branded spray cans , being much more robust in their finish and only half the price. The Primer ,I have been told is an acrylic lacquer, and dries quite hard, goes on easily and covers well. From that point I either spray them with the Matte black or undercoat in Tamiya flat brown through the airbrush.Always allow 24 hours for the Primer to dry. It dries dead flat..if you have shaken it up well. The black, on the other hand being only Matte has an annoying sheen.
When the miniature is finish I then coat it with the above, with a thick big brush..and allow to dry. If you are going to use Testors dullcote then I find this to be a crucial process.this being a Matte, not a flat, dries with a bit of an annoying sheen..but..
then comes the final varnishing ..I am just beginning to use Dullcote again..I used it all the time when I painted in oils and enamels.. but I found Acrylics a bit delicate . It is usually safe if you have sealed your mini with the Jo Sonja's Matte..if not it can eat you acrylics right off to the metal.
But my favourite is seen in the last picture .Gunze H20 flat clear..if you have let the Matte varnish dry completely, and conditions are perfect, or near perfect, then I run it through the airbrush, mixed well in my paint shaker for about 2 minutes, with about 1:5 ratio of Windex window cleaner/Varnish and spray away .
People don't take seriously the paint shaker..bad luck for them I say. An absolute must in my opinion. especially using tear dropper acrylics. I routinely shake all my new dropper bottles before first use., and it is a boon in "recovering" paint that has dehydrated to some extent..a small amount of Window cleaner and a five minute shake and you can usually bring dieing GW paint back to complete a useful life.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/rob/rob411.htm
http://www.robart.com/store/hobby-tools/paint-shakers
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
His Emminence The Elector Spiritual,
His Emminence The Elector Spiritual, The Prince-Archbishop of Witzboldfeld, Johan-Louis von Christofberg, Primate of all the German People of the Reich, and some of the habitues of, and visitors to, his most colourful of courts, seen at the ceremonial consecration of the new colours of the Elector's Guard Grenadiers, so sadly and recently lost at the Battle of Grosser Feuerbach.
The Elector Spiritual and some of his friends More at http://cardinalhawkwood.blogspot.com/2010/12/elector-spiritual.html |
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
General Stahl, the Undefeated ... completed
Major General Friedrich Phillip-Emmanuel Kristian von GansPflücken, Baron Stahl, Count of Sontar , Proprietor of Ir10., von Sontar and his chum Don Emillio Estevez ,Alban consul at the Court of the Elector Spiritual
more to be seen at
http://cardinalhawkwood.blogspot.com/2010/12/general-stahl-undefeated.html
more to be seen at
http://cardinalhawkwood.blogspot.com/2010/12/general-stahl-undefeated.html
Sunday, December 12, 2010
YETI & OGRE
A Yeti and an Ogre have some words over who will be boss of the block! The Ogre is a Reaper figure. The Yeti was given to me by Nate who lurks on the fringes of this blog and I painted it a couple of years ago. Both are nice big well detailed and nicely animated figures which I have yet to use on the tabletop - still trying to figure out how to include a Yeti into a Fire and Fury Regimental game, anyone got any ideas?